Mulligatawny [] is a soup which originated from South Indian cuisine. The name originates from the Tamil words miḷagāy (மிளகாய் 'chilli') or miḷagu (மிளகு 'pepper'), and taṇṇi (தண்ணி, 'water'). It is related to the soup rasam. Mulligatawny was very popular in British India and by the 1800s it began to appear in cookbooks of the day; with each cook (or cookbook) featuring its own recipe. Recipes for mulligatawny varied greatly at that time and over the years (e.g., Maria Rundell's A New System of Domestic Cookery contained three versions), and later versions of the soup included British modifications that included meat (though the local Madras recipe on which it was based did not). In 1827, William Kitchiner wrote that it had become fashionable in Britain: By the mid 1800s, Wyvern, the pen-name of Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert (1840–1916), wrote in his popular "Culinary Jottings" that "really well-made mulligatunny is ... a thing of the past."